Worldwide Learning Expedition

Nepal Learning Expedition

Brief History Of Nepal

The political, social, and cultural history of Nepal lies in the large valley of its capital city, Katmandu. As far back as 500 b.c., Siddhartha Buddha was believed to have been born in the region called Lumbini. Later, conquerors brought the Aryan caste system and placed Buddhists at the bottom of it.

Different dynasties controlled the valley over the next 1,000 years until the Malla family (1200-1750) came to power. Rather than persecute Buddhists, they allowed for religious freedom, thereby causing a 'Renaissance,' whereby the culture flourished. While many areas of the world have a 'golden-era,' Katmandu's was under the Malla dynasty's founder, King Yaksha Malla. When he died, his sons split the empire into three distinct regions, or city- states (similar to Athens/Sparta) called Katmandu, Patan, and Bhaktapur. Each competed against the other to control trade with India, China, and Tibet. Despite small conflicts, the entire region prospered. Most of the Valleys beautiful temples and palaces were built at that time and can still be seen today.

As with many periods of growth, comes a period of war. The region was overtaken by Hindus who were escaping the Mughal conquerors of India. As the Mughals took over India, the less powerful lords/kings took over Nepal (1750). After 25 years of warfare, the Malla city-states fell to an Indian warrior, Prithi Shaw. His goal was to unite all of Nepal (not just the large, wealthy valley around Katmandu) and close its doors to foreigners, a policy that continued until mid 20th century.

After border skirmishes with Tibet and China during the 1800's, the Gurka's of Western Nepal entered India, which was controlled by England, beginning the Anglo-Nepalese War. Although Nepal lost the war, England feared fighting the Gurkas in the future. The English hired the fierce Gurkas and their trusty 'Khukuri' knives (designed to fight, skin animals, and even cut rice) as mercenaries against Indian nationalism and the country's fight for independence. Gurkas even fought in WWI and WWII against the Axis powers.

The 20th century of Nepal was filled with political change and instability. Royal visitors traveled to England to learn 'Western' ways of government and culture and brought back English democracy and legal systems and courts. Examples of changes for ordinary people were land ownership rights to commoners (or serfs in Europe) so that landlords could not kick people out onto the streets. Another example was the elimination of slavery and sari (the forced killing of a wife when her husband dies). This period of the early 20th century also saw the construction of hospitals, highways, and schools.

Despite modernization efforts, change did not happen fast enough. With better health care comes higher birth rates and increased life expectancy. With this, increasing population came new demands for more jobs. Nepal's economy could not provide such jobs, and people became disgruntled and began to protest against the government. The government's response was martial law, or rule by military---soldiers on every street corner, ready to shoot those that protested!

Like India's peaceful protest against England, the Nepalese formed the Nepali National Congress (like the Indian National Congress and the African National Congress) and with the help of India's first democratically elected Prime Minister, Jewaral Nehru, the corrupt and oppressive military regime ended.

Currently, Nepal is the only nation in the world that declares Hinduism as its national religion. Nepal is a constitutional Monarchy (like England) but most political power falls in the hands of the elected prime minister of the majority party, the Congress Party - CP, who is allied with the National Democratic Party - NDP (both are the American equivalent of right wing, industrial oriented Republican Party). In opposition, there is the Communist Party of Nepal (CPN).

Today, there are a lot of problems in the government. Not a day has gone by that I have not read of a death of police officers or wealthy industrialist or even peasants at the hands of the CPN. Most assassinations take place far from cities, where the government has small police offices that are attacked in the middle of the night and all weapons and communications are stolen. The CPN has also robbed banks to get money for continuing its battle against what they consider corrupt Nepalese capitalist system.

Written by:
William J. McCarthy
November 2000

Interviews from Nepal: Faces of Nepal

Interviews by William J. McCarthy

Tsering Dojee Lama-Owner of Cyber Cafe; Katmandu

1. What is your personal history?
I was born in Tibet, but my family moved to Nepal when I was seven to escape the Chinese. I am older now, but I have gone back to visit my relatives 7 times. I have worked many different jobs but I have worked in communications now for five years (providing faxes and international telephone calls). I have owned this cyber cafe for two years now and business is good. An owner can make 50,000-300,000 rupees per year (750 to 4,500 American dollars).

2. How is the Internet being used by Nepalese? How has it changed Nepal?
Currently, about 30% of my business is from tourists. 60% is for young people engaging in chat rooms, and looking up information about American colleges, and 10% are using it for business purposes. Last year, less than 5% was used by business so it is starting to help people make money. This is only a plus for our economy. The only downside I see is that it hurts people in the postage industry. Less people buy postcards and write letters when they can send e-mails faster and cheaper.

3. You are both a Tibetan and Nepali citizen - what is your opinion of the future of Tibet?
China will not leave. They have destroyed hundreds of monasteries, and left less than 10. They want to destroy Tibet to create a bigger China. At best, Tibet will be granted the same autonomy that Hong Kong has; it will be subject to Chinese federal law, but allow Tibetans to have control over ITS culture and religion.

4. If Tibet is not free, will its spirit live on? Who will carry that torch?
Monks will be, and assume responsibility for Tibetan Buddhism whereas Tibetan culture will be secure in the hands of families like mine who have been forced to leave, but Tibet has not left their hearts. That is what their children must do. If these two groups work together, then Tibet will live on. I see it everyday. Across the street, there is the world's second largest Tibetan monastery where hundreds of monks study. There is even talk of the worlds first Buddhist University; which will continue Tibetan traditions for generations to come.

5. What are your political beliefs?
I support the Nepali Congress Party, which is a right wing, pro business oriented party. They support expanding tourism and bringing industry through the construction of hydroelectric dams for cheap electricity, which will bring in foreign manufacturing. While Nepal is smaller than the America's state of Rhode Island, if its mountains were flattened, it would be bigger than the continental United States! Also, the power of rivers from the Himalayas and the monsoon rainfall in the south give us a larger potential for hydroelectric power than all the rivers in America--combined! But, our government has problems, and there is corruption at all levels. To build the dams would cost billions and billions of investment capital that we do not have.

6. What are issues/needs that are not being addressed by your party or government?
I pay 10% of my revenue in taxes, because I am honest. Many people and businesses make more than I do, but do not pay any taxes. I have no problem with many poor people not having to pay taxes, but the system allows too many dishonest businessmen to benefit, and provides little incentive to be honest. Also, I am worried for when I retire. Our version of Social Security pays elderly just 500 rupees a month ($7) to live and eat on. This is not possible unless you live with your family and have children to depend on. What about medicine? What if I am sick, the government will not help pay. People die all the time because hospitals will not treat them if they cannot afford treatment. Is this how they do it in America?

Kusaug Chozon- female monk

1. You are a white woman wearing monk clothing--why?
I was born to Christian parents in Germany. My mother studied Zen Buddhism and has exposed me to it. I grew up accepting other religions as being equal to my own. When I was 14, I made up my mind to come to South East Asia and study Buddhism, which I am doing now.
 
2. Why Buddhism, why Nepal?
I volunteered at an Indian hospital for a year. One day, some Tibetan Monks walked in front of me. I froze. Somehow, I just knew. I believe that it is probable that I was Tibetan in a former life, but I had been unaware of it until I saw them. I grew up in Germany always feeling like an outsider, even though it was my home. When I saw the monks, I knew it was not Germany that was foreign to me. Rather, I was a foreigner to all Western Culture. I decided then and there to follow my past, and allow it to be my future. I have been studying Tibetan Buddhism ever since. I have taken vows and pledge the rest of my life towards getting to know myself better and releasing myself from the suffering caused by samsara, or the life we live suffering as humans.
 
3. Very few women are monks, let alone Western women. Are you treated differently?
As a foreigner wearing these robes, I am treated with suspicion, but I think that is natural. What is disrespectful is that female monks receive 1/3 less stipend money than males do. Our living arrangements are very, very, simple whereas men have much more elaborate facilities and higher stipends for living allowances. This is just like the Western world!

Samrat Paudyat- receptionist at budget hotel

1. What is your impression of the tourists that travel to Nepal?
I like the foreigners. I can speak good English and some German. If I become fluent, I can get a very good paying job at one of the luxury hotels here. I make only about 1000 rupees per month here (about $15), but I could easily make two or three times that if my language skills and education were better. The only tourists that I have had problems with are the Indians. They believe they are better than us Nepalese. They call us Kanza, or servants. It is my job to help, not be a servant. There is tension between us because our government has allowed us to buy cheaper products from China rather than India. We are also buying national defense weapons from China because they are cheaper. India is trying to make this trade issue a national security issue, like the tension with Pakistan. But there is no political tension between us, only cultural ones. We are all Hindus, but even Nepalese businessmen are considered 'less' worthy than an equal Indian businessman by Indians. You might say that Nepalese are lower on the Caste ladder than Indians. Although the 'caste system' is outlawed, it is very much in practice here. You will never find a child from a poor family as a judge. Unlike America, there is almost no social mobility.
 
2. What are your impressions of China and the Communist Party?
I do not like communists. The left wing military Maoists use violence to complain of capitalist abuses by businessmen and the Congress Party. They think the rich are getting richer, and the poor poorer. This is probably true. But shooting policemen and businessmen and poor peasants is not the way to help them. They are just like Mao of China. They use force to help others, but when they are in control, they will be just as corrupt and mean as the Chinese are. I know our government is corrupt, but which one is not?
 
3. What about the current government by the King and Queen-the constitutional monarchy- does it work?
They rule very well, but they do not do much. The prime minister is elected by the people of Nepal. He is of the Congress Party and wants to bring economic change and Western values to Nepal. That will make me more money, so I support this.
 
4. You seem very concerned about money. What are living expenses like here?
We have 12 people in my house--brothers, sisters, parents and three children. All must work except the kids who are in school. Without them, I do not know how I would be able to provide for my wife, who works making clothing in the cottage industry, and three young children. For example, I make about 1000 rupees a month, 600 goes to electricity. That is why I support hydroelectric dams proposed by the Congress Party. It may affect other parts of Nepal, but that does not concern me. I have to provide for my family. My extended family must live together if we are to save money for the future.