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  • Latin America | San Christobal, Galapagos Geography & Environment | The Galapagos Interview

    Lola Villacreses

    Naturalist Guide Lola Villacreses III

    Lola Villacreses Naturalist Guide III invites you to come with her on an unforgettable trip around the Enchanted Islands. Experience for yourself the land of marine iguanas, giant tortoises and Darwin's finches. Her home city is Guayaquil, where she studied Aquaculture (Marine Biology) at ESPOL, Escuela Superior Politecnica del Litoral, later specializing in Environmental Studies. Worked on research institutes: CENAIM, Centro Nacional de Aquacultura e Investigaciones Marinas and Centro Nacional de Investigación Roche where she became a head researcher. After a glorious visit to the Galapagos Islands she decided to become a Naturalist Guide of the Galapagos National Park on 1994. At this moment she is a Naturalist Guide III of the motor vessel Santa Cruz belonging to Metropolitan Touring. Her interest in traveling plus learning new languages has taken her to the United States, Europe and the Middle East. She speaks fluent Spanish, English and Italian. During her expeditions she focuses specially on bird watching and marine life. She enjoys giving reviews and lectures about natural history. Lola Villacreses enjoys sharing her knowledge and devotion to this natural paradise.

    Lola Villacreses
    593 (4) 09 895577
    lolavillacreses@hotmail.com

    GALAPAGOS : NOW IT’S TIME FOR CLEAN-UP, EVALUATION OF IMPACTS AND MONITORING – AND TO THINK ABOUT THE FUTURE


    By the Charles Darwin Foundation
    for the Galapagos Islands

    February 2, 2001

    The grounded ship, “Jessica”, is still firmly lodged on the sandbank by San Cristóbal Island in Galapagos, where she ran aground on 16th January. She has resisted the salvage efforts of the Ecuadorian Navy and of the team of U.S.Coast Guard experts, who fly out today after two weeks of intensive work, in which they were able to pump out a little of the cargo but could not right or refloat the vessel.

    They have confirmed that almost all the cargo of diesel and bunker fuel have already spilled into the sea – as little as 1000 gallons remains in the ship. Patches of bunker fuel are still drifting through the archipelago, however, and the Galapagos National Park Service, the Charles Darwin Research Station, tour operators, fishermen and other collaborators are still working flat out to locate and mop up the patches, monitor wildlife populations that may be at risk, and treat affected animals.

    The complex, erratic currents of Galapagos have carried some patches of bunker fuel to the east coast of Floreana Island, which is 90 kilometers from San Cristóbal where the ship ran aground, and to the southern and south-eastern coasts of Isabela, some 130 km away. This brings to five the number of major islands affected by the spill. Fuel has washed ashore in some places but no serious cases of oiled wildlife have been reported in recent days.

    The observations of Park Service and Darwin Station personnel during the past week have reinforced the initial impression that impacts of the spill will be widespread but, on the incomplete evidence so far available, not severe. Most of the spectacular coastal wildlife of Galapagos seems to have escaped significant impacts – only a few dozen animals, mostly pelicans, have had to be treated and helped to recover. Deaths of fish and marine invertebrates have been reported but the extent of this mortality is not yet known. Marine iguanas on Santa Fe have been heavily exposed to the pollutants and we will be studying them closely, to look for any ill effects. There is no evidence that populations of the Galapagos penguin or the lava gull, two of the very rare species about which we are most concerned, have been affected. However, these are early days; systematic evaluation of impacts will take up to three months.

    Given the quantity of fuel spilled, the impacts could have been far worse. Galapagos wildlife appears to have had a lucky escape, mainly as a result of the currents and winds, which carried the diesel and bunker fuel away from San Cristóbal Island, where the Jessica ran aground, into deeper, offshore waters. There the bunker fuel tended to disperse, whilst the diesel steadily evaporated in the intense sunshine, before reaching the shores of the other islands.

    Good luck with the weather was complemented by dedicated, hard work – the Galapagos National Park Service led a determined, community-wide effort to keep the bunker fuel off the beaches and rocky coasts. Nevertheless the Darwin Station will undertake with the Park Service a full evaluation and prolonged monitoring of selected sites and species, in order to confirm the intensity and distribution of impacts and make sure there are no unforeseen medium-term effects.

    The ecological monitoring of potentially affected sites and species is likely to continue for 2-3 years. It will cover an array of marine organisms, such as algae and sea urchins, chosen to reflect the healthy functioning of the marine ecosystem, as well as more prominent, vulnerable species, such as the marine iguana, sea lion and lava gull.

    Complementary work will be done on improving the regulatory framework to prevent environmental disasters, whether oil spills or some other anthropogenic cause, such as a disease epidemic that threatens endemic wildlife. Contingency plans will be prepared for future incidents and the trained personnel, facilities, equipment, networks of contacts and financing mechanisms will be put in place, so that Galapagos is well prepared for emergencies.

    The total cost of mitigation and clean-up operations, plus the forthcoming evaluation, monitoring and contingency planning, will run into millions of dollars. We are extremely grateful to the many concerned people and institutions - local, national and international – who have responded rapidly with technical assistance, materials and funds. Considerably more funds will be needed, if we are to do a thorough job of the ecological monitoring and preventive measures.

    As the ecological and emotional impacts of this spill fade, I urge everyone who cares about Galapagos to remember the array of problems and opportunities facing marine conservation in the archipelago. In the coming weeks and months, the Darwin Station will be focusing not only on the continuing response to the spill but also on issues of great importance for the future of the Galapagos Marine Reserve, such as:

    1. implementing research and monitoring programs to guide decisions on fisheries, “no-take zones”, and conservation of exploited species, such as lobsters and sea cucumbers;
    2. investigating the factors affecting survival and reproductive succes of rare, endemic species, such as the Galapagos penguin;
    3. assisting the demarcation of fully protected “no-take zones”, which were agreed in 2000;
    4. advising and supporting the Government of Ecuador on measures to curb the rapid expansion of the local fishing fleet, set sustainable seasons and quotas for artisanal fishing in 2001, and analyse the fishermen’s request that small-scale long-line fisheries be permitted in the Reserve;
    5. assisting the Government to finalise the special regulations it has been preparing on tourism, fisheries, environmental control and control of alien species;
    6. supporting the efforts of the Park Service to enforce the prohibitions of industrial fishing and shark fin fishing.

    The Galapagos Marine Reserve is a vast and wonderful protected area, that extends over 130,000 square kilometers of the Pacific Ocean. Created just three years ago, it not only has an extraordinary diversity of submarine habitats and species, but also supports the spectacular coastal wildlife, for which the Islands are renowned.

    The image of the Jessica spewing fuel into this unique environment has dismayed all who value the natural wonders of the world. Relief that the ecological damage has not, apparently, been severe, must be accompanied by renewed determination to ensure that the archipelago be protected in perpetuity. I would like to thank the many people who have offered moral and practical support during this emergency, and I ask all who care about pristine nature to keep supporting conservation of the irreplaceable fauna and flora of Galapagos

    Dr Robert Bensted-Smith
    Director Charles Darwin Research Station,
    The Galapagos Islands

    For further information, contact infocdrs@fcdarwin.org.ec. If you wish to make a donation to help the work of the Charles Darwin Research Station and the Galapagos National Park Service, please contact one of the Friends of Galapagos organizations listed on the website www.galapagos.org

    THE GALÁPAGOS POST - OCTOBER 2000

    Dear friends:
    In the following minutes you are going to know how I encountered a whale while I was traveling on a boat outside Fernandina Island and how I have found new species of birds who have been arriving to Galápagos during the last months of September and October. This newsletter is specially dedicated to the all of the children who enter to one planet education network and to whom I want to share my devotion to the wildlife of this magical archipelago.

    A WHALE DOVE UNDER MY BOAT
    During the months of July to September several whales arrived to the islands looking for a place to breed and feed from plankton and fish. These are humpback, bryde and sperm whales. On September I was on a dinghy visiting the penguins colony when found a group of blue footed boobies and other birds feeding rapidly 300 meters off the coast. I saw at the distance a spout (like high spray) and turned off the motor to observe. When I realized the whale was in front of me, I stayed in silence while it made a dive and after a couple of minutes it reappeared toward the bow of the boat meaning it when feeding under my boat. I stayed attonished and saw several other spouts and observed its folded shoulder realizing it was a humpback whale.

    NEW BIRDS ARRIVING
    On the other hand every year many species of birds come from the northern hemisphere looking for a place to spend the southern summer during the northern fall and winter. These birds are sandpipers, sanderlings, turnstones and whimbrels. But last September we found some common terns flying around the islands of Fernandina and south of Isabela a very active and curious small bird.

    HUNDREDS OF SEA LIONS ARE BORN
    On the islands of Espańola,Fernandina and James plenty female sea lions have given birth. I find every week since last October many placentas and new born pubs from sea lions. The females have a pregnancy period as the human beings of nine months plus a period called "delayed implantation" it means after the female sea lion gets ferilized the embryo keeps resting for three months to let the sea lion mother to recover.

    JEAN MITCHELL COSTEAU WAS HERE
    With the Ecuadorian´s private industry effort a Marine Laboratory based on a boat called "Tiburón Martillo" will be based on the north western islands of Darwin and Wolf specially to study the famous whale shark. Many scientist, volunteers and members of the Galapagos National Park will be working at this "floating laboratory". Jean Mitchell Costeau (Jaques Costeau son) came to Ecuador to inaugurate this boat which is actually sailing to the Galapagos Islands.

    Newsletter edited by:
    Lola Villacreses
    Copyright 2000

    lolavillacreses@hotmail.com

    THE GALAPAGOS POST - Summer 2000

    DEAR FRIENDS:
    Being a naturalist guide at the Galapagos Islands is a privilege and I am happy to bring back this short newsletter. First, telling my personal experiences during the months of July and August while I was sailing on board the Santa Cruz motor vessel. Second, I have for this publication a very interesting theme: Galapagos Islands a unique treasure belonging to the world.

    AUGUST AND JULY:
    THE COLD MONTHS & THE MATING SEASON

    The cold Humbolt current traveling from the south 6500 miles away off the coast of Chile brings cold and rich waters to the islands and displaces away the north-warm Panama current offering and opportunity to the organisms to increase their feeding and reproduce in massive numbers. While walking on the islands of Española and James we have encounter dozens of female sea lions mothers who had given birth on the area of the soft sand. While a few sea lion mothers had abandoned their new born pub, they did not develop a healthy pub as it has happened in previous year playing here their role of choosing the most adapted ones. On the other hand not all the individuals had shown significance mortality as the blue footed boobies who have increased their nesting survival rate from one hatchling to two hatchlings per nest as walking on North Seymour Island. Similar fact has been seen on the reproduction of frigatebirds who have increased highly their courting and survival rate on North Seymour and Tower islands demonstrating the effect of the Humboldt current on the Galapagos waters.

    GOOD NEWS:
    To compare the number of individuals since the El Niño Year of 1998 the Research Station and the Galapagos Naturalist Guides have helped to count week after week during 1999 and have discovered the following: the penguin colony increased from 400 to 1200 individuals since , the cormorants colony increased from 400 to 900 and the flamingos colony from 250 to 700 individuals.

    GALAPAGOS A UNIQUE TREASURE BELONGING TO THE WORLD
    A treasure is a richness with an infinite value. But in the case of Galapagos is a shared treasure by all the humankind, with whom nobody is the owner and everybody, is the owner at the same time. Its everybody commitment to be alert permanently to preserve this natural patrimony. It's our desire that future generations can enjoy and participate from this rich fountain of knowledge. In the next minutes I will explain you some of the facts that impact these unique ecosystems and the battle to maintain them.

    Galapagos is a living laboratory of evolution where we find peace and tranquillity, exotic organisms as domestic animals had been introduced in the past very easily and are eradicated with great difficulty. It's necessary to receive international attention to recover the ecosystems and the natural equilibrium. We want you to know Galapagos is like a unique child, everybody's brother. Its important to be conscious about how fragile and valuable is Galapagos. If we do no take care of this treasure, this equilibrium of peace and harmony would be broken. If we permit a diamond to be stolen (the fauna) and to destroy a zafir (the flora), we would loose this unique child that with all of its enchant and virtues has been declared NATURAL PATRIMONY OF HUMANKIND.

    GET IN CONTACT WITH THE CHARLES DARWIN RESEARCH STATION WEB PAGE telling you the latest news and conservation efforts to: www.galapagos.org

    Newsletter edited by:
    Lola Villacreses
    Copyright 2000

    lolavillacreses@hotmail.com

    THE GALAPAGOS POST - Spring 2000
    Hello friends! I am Lola Villacreses a Galapagos Naturalist Guide. I have been traveling trough Europe and Ecuador and cruising on the Galapagos Islands on board of the Santa Cruz vessel. After 6 months I decided to re-edit the Galapagos Post after receiving several messages (even one from Japan) asking to write again. And here I am glad to be back to inform you about this last paradise The Galapagos Islands.

    GIANT ALBATROSSES CAME BACK!
    On Hood Island at the South-East of the Archipielago the last albatrosses left on a journey of 1000 km from Galapagos toward the coast off Ecuador and Peru the first week of February (this was very late). We were missing them so much and finally the first ones to return were seen on the second week of March, that for my surprise I found while I was sitting with a group of visitors on the cliff near the blowhole. The albatross are the largest marine birds on the South East Pacific ocean with a wingspan of 2.4 m they certainly look like planes because of their fascinating techniques of flying, you see why they are my favorite birds.

    COLORFUL FRIGATEBIRDS ON THE NORTHERN ISLANDS
    On Tower and North Seymour Islands I have been able to see during the months of February and March frigatebirds hanging on a discotheque (well, courtships of frigatebirds). They inflate a bright red gular sac and with enthusiasm they sing and flap their wings on bushes waiting desperate for the females to approach for mating. For this way of “flirting” the females are the ones to choose the male mates by flying close to a group of several males candidates, and getting closer and closer until they stay to built a nest. Frigatebirds are putting newspaper ads asking for blind dates.

    GALAPAGOS TORTOISES WILL RETURN TO THE LAND OF THEIR PARENTS
    On Hood Island by the year 1971 (one year after I was born) the population of Giant Tortoises was reduced to only 14 individuals. Thanks to the program of breeding and rearing in captivity at the Charles Darwin Research Station, it was possible last week to repatriate the tortoise number one thousand of this unique specie. On this repatriation program 64 juveniles, 3-4 years old, weighting only 1.5 kg will return back to their homeland, Hood Island. Before this trip these quelonian reptiles are exposed to a short quarintine. The tortoises recovery as well as reaching adulthood takes 25-30 years. Giants tortoises can live 150 to 180 years and have been populating the Galapagos Islands for millions of years.

    Our mission is to spread the word, telling everybody about the Galapagos Islands; last natural place on earth to be saved, World Heritage Site.

    Edited with lots of care by:
    Lola Villacreses
    Galapagos Naturalist Guide
    lolavillacreses@hotmail.com   Top

    Latin America
    is a region that covers a vast territory that includes both Central and South America, as well as many islands of the Caribbean such as Cuba, Dominican Republic, Haiti, etc. Central America has 7 nations (Mexico, Nicaragua, Honduras, El Salvador, Panama, Guatemala). South America has 12 independent nations (Columbia, Brazil, Ecuador, Chile, Guyana, Argentina, French Guyana, Bolivia, Venezuela, Uruguay, Paraguay, Peru and Suriname) as well as two foreign controlled territories (Faulkland Islands-England controls and French Guyana).

    The geography of the Latin America is very diverse. It is covered by mountains, forests and enormous rivers such as the Amazon and Rio De la Plata. The major western/pacific ocean mountain range from Tierra del Feugo (southern tip called Cape horn) thousands of miles north is called the Andes mountains. When the same mountains move into Mexico they're called the Sierra Madres and the Rocky Mountains when they hit America. Many nations such as Brazil have enormous rain forests that produce much of the planet's breathable Oxygen. Deforestation, or the cutting down of large tracts of land is of global concern.

    San Cristobal, Galapagos

    Ecuador flag GEOGRAPHICAL LOCATION
    The Galapagos Islands are located 972 Km from the American Continent, and are situated in the southwest Pacific Ocean, in front of Ecuador. They could be found on 0 latitude and between 91 and 92 degrees west longitude.

    The borders are:
    North: International waters of the Pacific Ocean and of Insular Costa Rica.
    Southeast: International waters of the Pacific Ocean.
    West: International waters of the Pacific Ocean.

    Also, the Archipielago is situated on the Nazca Plaquet. It is crossing the equinoctial line or zero parallel.

    GENERAL DATA
    The Galapagos archipelago consists of the following islands:

    13 big islands.
    7 small islands.
    47 rocks of different sizes.

    The archipelago extends over 855,400 Km2. 8010Km2 consist of dry land and Nathional Parks, and the rest of the country consists of populated and agrarian zones.

    The Following information is submitted to OPEN by:
    Victoria Mediavilla
    Student, 5th grade,
    San Cristobal, Galapagos.

    GEOLOGICAL ORIGIN
    The Galapagos archipelago is of volcanic origin. These islands were never a part of the American continent. The continuous eruptions of the underwater volcanoes over time accumulated enough material to form this archipelago. Eruptions started approximately 3 to 5 million year ago.

    There are five major islands in the Galapagos. Most are about 200-300 square miles but the largest; Isabella Island is 200 sq. miles. The others are San Cristobal, San Salvador, Fernadina, and Santa Cruz. Ninety seven percent of the islands are preserved national parks, and three percent is reserved for Ecuadorians living on the island. The Galapagos are situated about 560 miles off the coast of Ecuador and 875 miles from the Panama Canal. There are many currents such as the Humboldt that run from the Antarctic northwards until the Bay of Panama, whereby it begins its long journey across the Pacific. When this 2miles per hour current reaches Australia, it begins a counter-clockwise descent southeast to return back to Penguinland and to Cape Horn. It then begins its ascent northwards again.

    Erstwhile, there is the North Equatorial current that begins from the North Pole and moves clockwise from Alaska (known as the Aleutian Current) further south until it is known as the California Current and it eventually meets with its sister, the South Equatorial Current moving North from South America. Both currents meet in Panama and move west together. Oddly enough, when the two major currents, or slow saltwater rivers, bounce into Australia and Indonesia, they actually form the Equatorial Counter-Current that actually moves East between the North and South Equatorial Currents. This is the equivalent of having a large highway with six lanes moving West, but on the middle yellow line, a bicyclist moves east. When El Nino (or the Christ Child) hits, this throws the entire current into odd flows, which leads to major changes in water temperature, fish production, and weather patterns. Weather is controlled by temperature, and if the temperature of the worlds greatest ocean is offset by several degrees, events like Hurricane Mitch in Central America will result even a year or two before/after El Nino begins.

    The single most important factor in navigation is understanding such weather patterns. On the equator there is a current to help sail towards Asia. There are also steady winds coming from the South East called the trade winds (allowing mariners of yesteryear to move products swiftly) producing 5-15 knot winds. Our vessel Patience moves about 90-120 miles per day under such conditions. We traveled 875 miles in 9 days at an average of 97 miles per day averaging 4 m.p.h. Although many people feel such math is not important when sailing and using geography, it is vital. For example, The vessel carries 64 gallons of fuel, which will run the engine for 2 hours per gallon. At an average speed of 4 knots, the captain has to know how far/how long he can use his engine before running out. (how many miles can the vessel travel?-try to figure it out)

    64 gallons * 2hrs per gallon=128 hours engine time
    4*128= 512 miles

    Sounds simple right, here is where it can be complicated. Remember, there can be a 2mph current working with you, or 2 mph working against you...lets round up or total engine time to 5 days (24*5=120). Current against you - 2*24=50 miles lost (multiply times 5 days-you can only cover about HALF our original distance under power. MATH IS IMPORTANT. The distance from the Galapagos to Havu Tiva, the 1st island due west is...2900 miles!!!!! Hence, trade winds are life winds. Top

    Environment

    As you swim in the Bahia de Wrecks, or Wreck Bay, sail through the harbor, or stand on the town pier, you are constantly reminded of the glory mammals, flora/ fauna and fish that once were around the world and still are today. Giant Cormorants 'kamikaze 'dive from 150 feet in the air into the water to grab their unsuspecting prey. Iguanas perch near the beaches (and spit on my camera) solo and in-groups up to 10. Thousands of pescado (fish) glide effortlessly under the boat and into the mouths of the alpha mammalian pecking order here, seals. Weighing as much as 800 pounds, the beautiful, curious and friendly creatures own the islands. People often wake up to find several sunning themselves on their deck, in their dingy, and I even saw one emerge from the cabin of a sailboat!

    While many people are aware of the abundance of wildlife here, there is never any mention of the friendly Ecuadorian people. While many tourist countries often have resentment towards wealthy foreigners, I have found them to be extremely courteous, and curious. Oddly enough, there is little communication between eco-tourists here on San Cristobal because many choose to go to Santa Cruz where the Darwin Research Center is located. According to Maria Esther Salinas Guerron, of the Office of Culture for Galapagos, "Galapadorian people don't have much contact with tourists here. They often come in tour groups, stay together, and only spend time learning about the wildlife, not our people. Many tourist come by boat and only stay for the afternoon to return to their cruise ships, never even asking about how people live." Janet Gutierrez, the overseer of the Office of Tourism, supported this idea for the Province of Galapagos. "We are very different from Ecuadorians. We have our own culture. We are separated by 600 miles from Ecuador, and have a beautiful isla (island). But few here speak English, and tourists rarely venture one or two streets from the beach where the real gentes vive (people live). Sadly, people don't know enough about us. I find that tourists often show more consideration toward our waters and streets than do some of us. Its not that we are bad people, there is just little opportunity for us."

    1998 Ecuadorian government statistics show me that 80% of jobs on San Cristobal are in tourism, fishing 6%, cattle production 5%, agriculture 2% etc. The average income is $4,000 American dollars. Currently, there is tension between labor and government on the island. Taxi drivers were on strike demanding the government-controlled prices for their services be increased. Fishermen are also experiencing difficulties with the municipal government from the harvesting of sea cucumbers to be sold in China and Japan. "San Cristobal is an island that is currently balancing what we traditionally call environmental 'wildlife' and the needs of an 8% annual human growth rate. This leads to many problems," according to Department of Health Chairman Dr. David Basantes Vargas (see Vargas interview later). Top

    Galapagos Interview:

    Janett Gutierrez
    Provincial Administrator of
    Tourism for Galapagos Province

    (conducted in Spanish by interviewer W.J.McCarthy)

    Q: How many tourists visit the Galapagos?
    A: There are different seasons. The high season would be during the American and European winter months. We generally have about 300 tourists daily in high season and only 100 during the low. Half those numbers are for people staying in Santa Cruz (Academy Bay) where the Darwin Research Center is located. San Cristobal is the provincial government center and receives about 100 day in high season.

    Q: What are issues/problems that gentes (people) here face and that tourists don't see?
    A: Very little changes here in the provinces. Government elections occur, promises are made but nothing happens. If I had to choose three, they would be basura (garbage /refuse) left by gentes not tourists, hurto (petty theft) of yachties (we experienced the loss of a gasoline hose, portable spotlight and a pair of Teva sandals), and muelle (the wharf area) has many holes in the ground and cracks that cause people to fall, but it never gets fixed.

    Q: How do the gentes of this island differ from those on the mainland of Ecuador?
    A: There is very little contact with the mainland. We cannot get Ecuadorian t.v. The only contact is by plane or boat and phone calls are very expensive compared to what people make each year (calls were $1.00 for three minutes and average salary is $4000). We are like the people of Hawaii. How similar is life there to that of California?

    Galapagos Interview:

    Juan Chavez
    Office of Tortoise Protection
    Isabella Island
    Galapagos Province

    Q: What is the goal of the Tortoise Protection Program?
    A: Quite simply, to protect the giant tortoise from the environmental and ecological changes man has brought to the Galapagos. Originally, these creatures had few if any natural enemies. Today, animals brought by Europeans such as pigs, dogs, and humans have devastated their numbers. These tortoises can live for over a year in a state of hibernation without eating. Hence, they were put on sailing ships as a source of fresh meat. Thousands were killed this way. There used to be 14 different races of tortoise on this island alone, three are already extinct.

    Q: What facts can you offer about them-do they really live over a hundred years?
    A: It's impossible to tell the exact age. Unlike trees, they don't have rings that provide the exact age. Young turtles have curved rings on their shell, the more distinct their lines, the younger they are. The older the turtle, the smoother the rings. The skin is very smooth and its about 200 years old, and is ready to pass on. Females weigh about 150 pounds, but the males can grow to about 450 pounds.

    Q: This may sound silly, but do they make good pets?
    A: I get asked that all the time. No. They are reptiles, not mammals. They have no feelings or emotions like a dog or pig. Turtles lay eggs, then leave the offspring to the elements. Few survive the cormorants, insect, or man imposed predators. Baby tortoises are guided by instinct and a great many perish from such predators.

    Q: How successful have you been at breeding?
    A: In 1992, we started with three. Now we have over 500!! Thanks to a few male studs. Watching them breed is not to be forgotten. But again, you still have to worry about human issues. Earlier this week, the entire breeding center was taken over by angry fishermen protesting against their quota of sea cucumbers. They 'tortoise-napped' 5 of the largest and promised to make tortoise-stew if their demands were not met. Fortunately, they were returned unharmed. But lets not make any mistakes, if the weekly shipment of food was not brought to the island, food would be scarce. Once their food supplies were gone, this center would be a cafeteria.

    Galapagos Interview:

    Xavier Castro
    Radio Galapagos D.J.
    San Cristobal, Galapagos

    Q: What types of Music do Galapagosians listen to?
    A: Like anywhere, you can't link an entire region into one category. It's easier to categorize according to age. The older generation listens to slow Merengue, whereas the teenagers want American techno and house music.

    Q: Its over 1000 miles to the mainland. How does American music diffuse in San Cristobal?
    A: Although we are Ecuadorian and proud of it, our music and t.v. images come from Peru. Peru has a larger transmitter and we get radio from Peru and 5 t.v. channels from Peru, but nothing from Ecuador. It's sad, many of our youth think that the President of Peru is the President of Ecuador because that's all they see or hear from the media. Media misinformation, even if unintended, can and will have serious consequences.

    Q: Are you saying that you're in a cultural black hole?
    A: In a way, geography is the driving cultural force. The oceanic barrier is transforming our national sense of identity. We are Ecuadorians, but all the images we see and hear from radio and television is not Ecuadorian. It is often not even Peruvian. Its often American music and images that we see, albeit later than everyone else. For example, I just bought Santana's new c.d. It's great, but it had already won a Grammy before I had access to buy it.

    Galapagos Interview:

    Lucretia Cabezas
    Candidate for Municipal Consul
    San Cristobal Province, Galapagos

    (interview conducted by W.J.McCarthy in Spanish)

    Q: What are the important issues facing the people of San Cristobal that you will address if elected?
    A: Education and water consumption. Our schools are very weak because the salary is so small. If you want good teachers, then you must pay them enough to live. Also, they do not have access to the Internet in any of the schools. No one does on the island unless they can afford to pay the phone bills to mainland (about $1.00 every two minutes). The other major problem is water distribution. Santa Cruz, where the Darwin Research Center is located, receives many tourist dollars and the government spends a lot of money making them comfortable. Here, we are the provisional government center, yet each family is only allowed one hour of water consumption every two days. I have five children to feed, cloth and bathe, but I must be very careful not to run out of water. This is foolish. The government tells us we can go to the spring, but it is far away and few people can afford a car. Taxis are extremely expensive to us.

    Q: What is your vision for this island?
    A: I want to make our beautiful island stand for its people, not just the flora and fauna (plants and animals). There needs to be more of an effort to balance the preservation of our environment with the needs of humans, not just iguanas and seals. Nothing fancy, just better schools for our children and more water for a better quality of life.

    Q: How would you describe los gentes aqui?
    A: Los gentes aqui son simpli pero feliz (the people here are simple but happy).

    Galapagos Interview:

    Reynato Perez
    Galapagos National Park Guide
    Galapagos Province

    (interview conducted in English by W.J.McCarthy)

    Q: What are the qualifications to be a guide for the park?
    A: There is a general physical exam that you must take here in San Cristobal, then you must travel to Guayanquil, Ecuador every two years for a follow up with the national licensing company called Digmer. You must pass a content exam. There are three types of guides:
    Level I- graduate high school, monolingual, pass exam
    Level II- graduate college, bilingual, pass exam
    Level III- graduate college (with science degree), bilingual, pass exam

    Q: Is it difficult to get a job as guide?
    A: Absolutely. There are about 350 guides in all the islands. The number of positions is limited by the Darwin Center and the government. Aside from working in the profitable tourist industry, it's one of the best paying jobs in the Galapagos. A good guide can make 10-15 times what a laborer makes. Think about it, people come here looking to learn, you take them around on their own boat and you constantly experience the beauty of the flora and fauna. I always tell my new friends from the States or Europe, "Once you have been to the Galapagos, you have been in the laboratory of Evolution."

    Q: What is you impression of the balance between the environment and people?
    A: It's funny. Many people claim that there aren't enough jobs here. They blame the environment. There is a recession in Ecuador. They constantly complain that Santa Cruz and the Research Center gets all the resources. This is not true. Opportunity exists right here, right now. People would rather complain than do something. For example, I am trying to build a house but I'm having a hard time hiring workers. You see, many people prefer to live a subsistence level life rather than roll up their sleeves, work hard and take chances.

    Galapagos Interview:

    Leonidas Salgado Morales
    Director of Education
    Galapagos Province

    Q: How are schools structured on these islands?
    A: There are two types of schools. Primary and secondary. When children are 6, they attend primary classes until the age of 12. Secondary is from 12-15. Currently, there are 1,000 students in primary and 600 in secondary schools in. Thirty percent of the whole population on San Cristobal Province is in school. This puts a great strain on our limited budget.

    Q: What types of post-secondary opportunities exist when that thirty percent graduate?
    A: Currently none. But I am trying to work with three different mainland colleges to offer classes here rather than just those offered in Santa Cruz. If the Darwin Center were here, then WE would have such opportunities. For the time being, if a student wishes to continue his/her studies, they must travel to the mainland or Santa Cruz. Less that 1/3 even attempt this.

    Q: What is the status of technology for public schools in the Galapagos?
    A: Currently, very few schools have Internet access. I am the Director of Education, but I don't have access to email in my office. I must pay for it privately in my home. The national government has promised to get schools online within 18 months. I will not hold my breath, but it's the first time they have ever made a promise towards technology. (The only people that I encountered who had email service provided were members of the National Park Offices controlled by, you guessed it, the Darwin Center).

    Galapagos Interview:

    New Era Galapagos Scout Foundation
    Xavier Castro-Director
    William Pugo- President
    Matthew Garlick- World Teach English Volunteer

    Q: Xavier, you wear many hats, you are a national park guide, director of the NEGSF, and a d.j. on Radio Galapagos-why so many roles?
    A: There is so much to do. Here on San Cristobal, students are being forgotten. Santa Cruz is where all new information is being created, but none is shared here.

    Q: (Will) - While the world focuses on our islands as a lab, Xavier is right, we do not properly educate our fisherman on the importance of limiting fishing to protect what we have.
    (Xavier)- For example, many fishermen are eagerly awaiting the Sea Cucumber season to begin They are allowed only 4.5 million annually and may harvest only in designated areas. The most plentiful sites are off limits because that is where breeding occurs. Of course fisherman go there, and each year there is less to catch (fishermen on Isabela island demanded that 12 million be the set quota and took 5 giant land tortoises as hostage until their demands were met).

    Q: What is the goal of your foundation?
    A: (Xavier)- This is a very exciting time. We just rented a large office space in town and are building an Environmental Awareness Center. Our goal is to help the students and people here on the island increase their awareness of the world outside them, exposing them to environmental issues both locally and globally, and enable them to preserve the flora and fauna here, rather than have the government force them to without understanding why.
    A: (Will)- Within the center, we are going to have many different projects to execute our goals. You have to understand, there is no information given to tourists or people here. Yachties come into the harbor, tourists come from cruise ships and airplanes and walk down our streets without any information being given to them. We want to utilize our schools to create pamphlets and programs designed/written by them, based on student research and have them greet tourists as they disembark. Therefore, the first Galapagosian face they see/ and remember when they leave, will be human, not flora/fauna. The EAC will also sponsor a recycling program whereby yachties deposit plastics/ recyclable into bins at the wharf, and students create art pieces sold at the wharf and at the airport. But the major push of the EAC will be to help students and parents learn about the world and even learn English. That is why Matthew is with us. In fact, today is his first day here. (Matthew)- I work with World Teach as a volunteer to teach English. We are going to provide English language instruction daily in the afternoon for children and in the evenings for adults. I was surprised by the lack of English language skills by most of the people. But we have already started the process by providing instruction over the Radio Galapagos program. I am exited by the challenge and anxious to begin. (Xavier)- Our goal is to enable to people and especially teenagers to understand the unique niche that our islands provide the world. We want to expose them to the many choices life has, rather than accepting the limited lifestyle handed to them by the government and their parents.

    Galapagos Interview:

    Maria Esther Guerron
    Center for Culture of Galapagos Province

    (interview conducted in Spanish by W.J.McCarthy)

    Q: What is the basis for culture in the Galapagos?
    A: As anywhere, you should look at people vocation. On San Cristobal, tourism accounts for 80% of jobs, fishing 6%, cattle production 5%, crafts 3%, trade 4%, and govt. 3%. There are about 16,000 residents in the islands with about 6000 on San Cristobal. The population has 60% men and 40% women. The average yearly salary is $4-5000 U.S. dollars.

    Q: What are other ways to define the culture of these islands?
    A: There is only one major religion here, Roman Catholic. About 80% go to church weekly to one of the three churches on the island. (I noticed a Jehovahs Witness and a temple as well). February 12 is celebrated here as our big annual celebration, similar to your fourth of July. Its our day of cantonization, day of provincial incorporation into the Galapagos Islands (Isabella Island celebrates March 16th).

    Q: I've noticed there is little positive or negative reaction from people here towards tourists. Are they not part of the culture, or responsible for its change?
    A: People here don't mind tourists because they often come here on cruise ships for day tours. They go to Los Lobos playa (beach) and take pictures of the beautiful and unique flora and fauna (plants and animals). Very few Galapagosians speak English and none except for those in the tourist industry such as a bartender or park guide speaks French. Without language and communication, there is little contact and changing of culture.

    Galapagos Interview:

    Dr. David Basantes
    Director of Health Services
    San Cristobal, Galapagos Province

    (conducted in Spanish by W.J.McCarthy)

    Q: What are current issues of health here in the provinces?
    A: The most common problem is intestinal viruses. Bacteria exists everywhere in the world. They can also make you very sick if you don't take proper precautions. The most common cause of viruses here is not thoroughly washing fruit and vegetables. As you may know, water use is limited here on San Cristobal. People don't want to use their limited supply to wash what nature provides. But to answer your question, (he opens his computer files on patients and randomly selects 25 patients) out of 25 patients, 17 have high blood pressure, 7 have diabetes and four have asthma.

    Q: How does this compare to areas of high population density such as New York?
    A: Surprisingly very similar, yet the causes are very different. In New York, you would probably have a similar percentage of high blood pressure, but not for the same reasons as those who live here. Manhattan people generally eat better, lower fatty foods and exercise more, but have high stress levels. Therefore, your stress is reduced by diet and exercise. Here, our high blood pressure is caused by poor diet (lots of fatty foods and high in carbohydrates) and little exercise. Our food is generally healthy, but we eat too much because our staples are very cheap and we don't burn off the excess calories. We gain weight. This puts the same pressure on our hearts as job stress does in industrial areas. We offset the high blood pressure with a low stress lifestyle. I know of few people who return home 'stressed out.' The average age of death is about 73, quite similar to that of the United States.

    Q: What is the future of health/wellness for the people here-are things improving or getting worse?
    A: Much like the planet, overpopulation is going to have serious consequences. Last year, we had three people die. Two car accidents and one fisherman lost at sea. (less than one percent mortality rate). But we had a 2% birth rate for a population of 5,300 people. Each year, we have a 6% immigration rate from the mainland. Net population growth 7-9%. At this rate, the population will double every 12 years!! Fortunately, the government is taking steps to reduce this growth by forbidding immigration. But with each year, the population will grow, people will require more from our oceans, more water consumption, and more cars. Hotels will need more electricity lines and soon we will have the same cancer rates as modern nations and high stress levels and the government will be forced to use more than the 3% of land allocated to humans from the national park service. Labor problems already exist. Taxi drivers went on strike yesterday complaining of low fare rates set by the government. I have even heard that Isabella's fishermen are protesting their quota of the sea cucumber harvest. The battle between mans needs and the preservation of the environment is just beginning. In short, overpopulation of humans will be our biggest health problem in the future.

    Galapagos Journal Log

    4/24/00 - Day 1

    Ecuador flag We began our journey today. 875 miles from the Bahia de Panama to the Galapagos. Very little wind today. Tonight I went to the bow, and there were two large dolphins 'surfing' off the wake caused by the boats forward motion. There were electrolytic bacteria in the water, or the equivalent of millions of tiny fireflies swirling around the motion of the dolphins It was quite a beautiful sight. We sailed from 1100 to 1530 until the wind died. Lots of lightning in the sky, but it was so far away I couldn't hear any thunder. Shifts on board are divided between the captain, myself, and Alex. Each shift is four hours on, 8 hours off. Every day. I look forward to my 0200 shift. I get to see my first sunrise in the Pacific alone, at the helm of a vessel that is the process of moving around the world. Its funny how maps can make you misjudge how far someplace is while at the same time the crash of waves, the calm of wind or the company you are with can never be seen, or discussed. It must be experienced. I am tired, must sleep.

    4/25/00 - Day 2

    Beautiful day but changing winds. We are like the zigzagging branches of a Christmas tree tacking back and forth trying to make distance. Spotted a mako shark at 1330, hundreds of flying fish (no joke-they are half bird, half fish-jumping out of the water and flying around for 60-200 feet). We have snagged several fish, but they are too big to pull in. At 1805, I snagged a 7 foot sailfish (looks like a marlin) but it too broke my line. I'm hoping for sushi soon. We had planned to go to Cocos Islands off the coast of Panama but winds are more favorable for a south west course of 240 degrees. Another shark, hammerhead swam with the boat for a mile. I feel like the farther out to sea, the scale of predators and prey changes against man. I suppose this is only just. I feel like a yuppie in a BMW driving into East New York. I am feeling better about how the boat works. A sailboat is a complex machine that requires precise use, particularly when in an ocean with shark infested waters. At one point, we were 10 miles offshore when the water should have been 600 feet, when all of a sudden the depth gauge read 39 feet, 30 feet…I quickly studied the charts, redid the math, and knew that our position was in 600 feet of water. I had to trust my instinct rather than technology…..I felt like a navigator of yesteryear ( but I wrapped my life jacket tighter, because sailing 'back in the days WAS dangerous). There is no room for error.

    4/26/00 - Day 3

    40lb Dorado
    Alex and Captain catch
    40lb Dorado
    Last night around 0400 it got a little tense on my shift. A supertanker (about 600ft. long) came up from behind at twenty knots. We were cruising at three. It came within 400 yards of the boat. Next time, I will turn the engine on when they are within two miles which would give us a speed of 8 knots to maneuver better. It's never fun when you out of control of a situation. This reminds me of many students where I worked who were very smart, hard working, and are full of character, yet they come from families that don't love them enough. I think that if you are going to accept having a child, then you have an obligation to provide for them as much as mine did for me. Yet still, I am always impressed by the power of the individual and what can be achieved. Alex caught a 40lb Dorado today. The meat would be worth $175 at my favorite seafood market in Park Slope, Brooklyn. Nothing, I mean nothing beats food harvested by the sea and eaten hours later.

    4/27/00 - Day 4

    Shifts changed again today, but Alex's shirt did not. He has worn the same T-shirt for days now. He told me that when we arrive in Tahiti in two months, that he wants to save money by only having to wash one shirt and one pair of shorts. Funny guy, that Alex. The watch goes fast. I am performing isometrics hourly (using the resistance of muscles against other muscles). I have lost 10 pounds since my arrival in Panama. We are 500 miles from Galapagos sailing at 6 knots bearing 210 degrees south/southwest. Tonight's sail was breezy at 15 knots and waves 6ft, but it was fun. I feel like the only difference between me and an ancient mariner is that we don't have cargo in the hold to trade with. My business is communication and access to an emerging market in education called the distance learning revolution. Its going to do to schools what the diesel engine did for commerce…….Whatever happened to Glory, Gold, and God? Ah, its good to be on the cusp of a new Millennium.

    4/28/00 - Day 5

    Latitude: 04.04N
    Longitude: 83.52 West

    Winds are consistently out of the south, forcing us to head 260 degrees when we should be doing 235. This means more time at sea. The vessel is holding well under 6-7 foot seas. I just finished the book Kon Tiki. Living out Kon Tiki has just begun. I am surprised by the peaceful pacific. I have experienced much worse weather in the Long Island Sound than here in the greatest of oceans. I am finding I eat less everyday. Partly because its difficult to cook, partly because your body craves nutrients from fruit and vegetables, not saturated fats and Doritos. Yesterday I ate 2 oranges, 1 peanut butter/jelly sandwich and 4 Chips Ahoy! Chocolate chip cookies. I think the reason why Americans are so overweight is because they are 'actively passive.' Running around on Saturday s picking up dry cleaning in your car DOES NOT count as exercise. So while we are always so busy, it is our minds that are active, not our metabolisms.

    4/29/00 - Day 6

    Latitude: 3.18
    Longitude: 85.14
    347 miles to Galapagos

    I read Lisa's card today and it made it laugh out loud. You know, that hard belly laugh you get when two people are in on a joke and the rest of the world is not. We are not making the distance we hoped. I have been reading Darwin's Origin of the Species. There is a reason why people know about the book, but NOONE reads it. It's a bit technical with a lot of emphasis on plants. I know nothing about them. I know I should but give me a Salmon competing with Bears for survival on Channel 13 and you've got me hooked. I will finish it, but...I am still not certain why I am reading it. But it does clarify a lot of points of evolution and other interesting tidbits of the struggle during the 19th century between Creationism and evolution. He wrote, "The world we know was not created in one instant, but rather evolved through natural selection, from something infinitely primitive and is still changing." This debate came into the conscious minds of James Q. Public during the Scopes Monkey Trial during the 1920's. Let us not forget that Creationism won that battle, but lost the war-- yet there are still public schools in the south east part of America where Creationism is still taught in schools.

    4/30/00 - Day 7

    Latitude: 0.44
    Longitude: 89.33.26

    Last night we sailed our way across the equator. Looks the same. My cousin gave me a book on constellations before I left, but I forgot it. Next time…We entered Bahia de Wreckage (Wreck Bay) today on the island of San Cristobal (Crystal Ball) As we rounded the cape, I smelt peat burning (peat is animal dung solidified that is actually used like wood to burn). Its amazing the power of the old factory system of smell. I believe it was originally designed to help hunters and gathers from getting sick. If you ate a berry, you smelled it first. If it made you sick, your sense of smell wouldn't allow you to forget it, although your eyes might deceive you. Anyway, the peat reminded me of my grandmothers farm in Ireland when they would heat the house with all the cow dung in the fields. Sounds gross and it is. But we have to enjoy how certain smells remind us of people, or memories. Birds and fish really do jump out at you. Its actually hard to sleep with all the seals "AR-AR-AR-ARFing all night long looking to find someone to play with them. Its good to be on the island of San Cristobal. As I sit in the cockpit, I know that I will return to the Galapagos on my own vessel one day.

    5/3/00

    Great day. We made friends with the vessel Trilikom Triton, an international brigade of young cruisers from France, Germany, and Italy. Had a great meal for $2.00 (cost in Manhattan- 25.00). While I sat at a bar overlooking swirling Comorans diving a hundred feet from the air for dinner, dozens of seals arff arffed around the harbor. Paradise. Funniest part of the day was watching a bunch of displaced American tourists walking around with cameras everywhere and wearing big 4 x 6 inch cards with their names and the tour company on it. I felt embarrassed for them. They walk by and never even speak with the locals who I believe to be some of the nicest people I have ever met. Apprendio Espanol en mi colegio con mi estudiantes en Washington Irving y aqui, nunco personas habla Ingles. Gracias mi Latino estudiantes. (I learned Spanish with my students in NY, and here, noone speaks English). During dinner, Spanish, French, Italian and English were being discussed over pescado (fish) and pollo (chicken). It was like being at the United Nations. Kids, learn another language….

    5/4/00

    Galapagos National Park Guides
    Galapagos National Park Guides
    What a day. I interviewed officials all over the island. I met with the director of Culture, the chief of Tourism, two guides from the National Park service, and I was invited to be interviewed on Radio Galapagos (94.7) tomorrow as a representative of Washington Irving and Project OPEN to discuss the emerging trends in education via the Internet. I feel like the many hard hours training in New York City has greatly prepared me to meet the challenges facing establishing relationships/goals with different schools. I feel like I am on a working vacation. I worked for 9 hours today and I couldn't have had more fun. Its getting more difficult to remember the complexities of my job and life back in the States. But the loose threads and untied knots of my future are being knotted into a bowline (the strongest of sailing knots). I am seeing my perception of life and my career changing, right here, on full day 2 in the Galapagos.

    5/5/00

    Leonidas Salgado Morales
    Provincial Director of Education
    of Galapagos Islands,
    Leonidas Salgado Morales
    Another great day in the Galapagos. I am very tired. I worked a 12 hour day today. I began my morning with the Director of Education for the Galapagos Islands today. They have 1600 students on San Cristobal in primary and colegio (secondary) school, but no colleges/university. Students must go to Ecuador to receive higher education and many don't come back. He quickly established an interview with the teachers of Ignatio Hernandez Escuela (school). I spoke with teacher Teresa Navarate, Edwin Narcisco, Rene Villata and Senior Gil. They have a couple of computers but no modems. I promised I would try to get them technology and put them in further contact con el mundo (with the world) via the Internet and we planned some projects leading towards a student exchange program whereby students would live with a family here and vice-versa. I feel very good about it because this island is very, very safe and the community would openly welcome their homes and corazones (hearts) to others, as they have done to me. I then interviewed the doctor from the Centre de Services de Salud (Center for Health Services). Moments later I was on Radio Galapagos broadcasting to the entire island my ideas for using technology to enable students to perceive themselves as members of a global community.

    I was told that I was the first and only representative to ever go to Hernandez escuela and speak with teachers and students and invite them to participate in the emerging digital revolution. Its funny, when I left New York a few weeks ago, you would not hear or see an advertisement without 'dot.com' in it. Here, on an island of 6000, I estimate 35 people are online. Even the Director of Education - does NOT have Internet access in his office. Later in the day, about 5 people actually approached me to discuss the Radio Galapagos program. The islands are usually viewed as being an environmental center, but I have found that the Galapagos gente (people) are just as interesting as the flora/fauna and mammalian life. We leave tomorrow. I will miss my new friends. Like Douglas MacArthur said upon his forced leaving of the Phillipine Islands in 1942 to the Japanese, "I shall return."